January

At the start of the year a very enjoyable comission for the shop at Strawberry Hill House Trust commenced. To this end some interesting time was spent in research of the history of the house. There will perhaps be more on this in greater detail for another post, however, for the time being the wonderful restoration project that has been undertaken by the Trust can be seen here  www.strawberryhillhouse.org.uk 

February

This month saw another interesting museum commission which has taken until now to complete. The  Museum of the Order of St. John is in the heart of Clerkenwell and again will be the subject of another post. In the meantime it is well worth a visit, the charity dates back over nine hundred years. Entry to the museum is free although any donations are of course welcome www.museumstjohn.org.uk

St. John's Gate print

March

Most uneventful in terms of research or any new sketches. It is though, during such quiet months that small steps of progress are to be made to the building site. Some rather lovely salvaged cast iron fireplace inserts were installed in two rooms and tested for efficiency. These inserts are quite wrong in period for the late Victorian terrace having come from an older property but nonetheless fit in rather nicely. Nine months on the associated chimneypieces are still waiting to be fitted but fortunately the fireplaces work quite adequately without ornamentation in the meantime.

Fire in the Building Site

April

Much of this month was taken up exhibiting in Clerkenwell which will be returned to another time. An April excursion a walk through town has already been illustrated in a previous post. This year Easter fell within this month and was a beautifully warm weekend during which boz dined at Butler’s Wharf with some dear friends and a wonderful view. It is likely the photograph being out of focus is due to the good quality of the company and the associated quantity of wine.

Tower Bridge from Butler's Wharf

May

Four further exhibitions in Clerkenwell and in consequence numerous visits to the charming hostelries of the area, also to be saved for another post for another day. So a simple photograph …. also a little out of focus….  of the flower that boz associates with the month of May in a vase in the Three Kings Clerkenwell

Peony

June

A local event Faircharm Fair at Creekside, Deptford entailed a most pleasant walk along Deptford Creek for photographs to illustrate  flyers for the event.

Ha'penny Hatch

Laban

Faircharm Fair Flyer

July

On Tuesday 26th July boz went on a walk Waterloo by Maplight and most excellent it was too. It would not be correct to describe the route or the details here as you may at some point wish to experience it first hand which is to be highly recommended. The walk is one of several available here londontrails.wordpress.com where you will find Ken Titmuss provides a most interesting take on a guided walk using a series of old maps to transport you through many centuries in history of your chosen area and boz is looking forward to attending another of these in the coming year.

August

A little local walk on a sunny afternoon where an unexpected folly was discovered near to the building site. Set within Oxleas Wood at the top of Shooters Hill is Severndroog Castle. Standing sixty three feet high the tower was built in 1784 under the direction of Lady James of Eltham as a memorial to her husband Sir William James and named to commemorate his most famous exploit in destroying a pirate stronghold on the island fortress Severn Droog on the west coast of Malaba, India in 1755.  The tower is sadly in a state of disrepair and has been closed to the public since 1986. However boz was delighted to find that there is a preservation trust to undertake a restoration project of which more information can be found here: www.severndroogcastle.org.uk

Severndroog Castle

September

More exhibiting in Clerkenwell for London Design Festival. A very enjoyable week at the Craft Central Showcase in St. John’s Square. Linen glass cloths depicting Clerkenwell proved most popular as did a new item which we were barely able to keep with demand for ….. a strange little species of bird made of reclaimed slate salvaged from the rooftops of London

Slate Birds

October

An invitation to attend a meeting for London bloggers. This turned out to be a most enjoyable event both in itself, taking place in a very good hostelry in Pimlico in excellent company, and in the subsequent turn of events to which the acceptance of this invitation has led. The evening was arranged by Pete Berthoud a fully qualified City of Westminster Tour Guide who not only runs unique walking tours but writes most eminently on Discovering London which can be  perused in detail here www.peterberthoud.co.uk boz is and continues to be particularly taken with the series of posts which deal with The Lost which you will find along with a wealth of London gems.

En route through Green Park to Pimlico

November

Thus the aforementioned invitation led to meeting the wonderful group of people who are members of www.londonhistorians.org run by Mike Paterson arranging regular events and a monthly meet up and taking in some rather good public houses en route.  London Historians is open to all and is a most sociable and welcoming organisation and boz is extremely happy to have acquired new friendships along with a shiny beautifully illustrated membership card.

A few London Historians following a Christmas Lights Walk

December

An enchanting highlight upon which to end the year was a Christmas Lights Walk perfectly orchestrated by Joanna Moncrieff also a qualified City of Westminster Walking Tour Guide and member of London Historians. Beginning in Soho across Regent Street and Oxford Street and finishing in Marylebone the walk took in some beautiful displays in unexpected locations along with Jo’s specialities providing interesting histories of London’s eating and drinking establishments. Further details for these esteemed walks are here WestminsterWalking and a lovely account of our walk on the 29th December can be found here at LondonHistorians

A brightly lit end to the year

So our glass of something is now replete onward to 2012 and a Happy New Year to all

Such same perusal of a particular favourite film provided the impetus for this post. The Chain (1984) written by Jack Rosenthal. An engaging tale which follows moving day for seven households beginning in Hackney to Tufnell Park via Willesden then Hammersmith into Hampstead on to Holland Park then Knightsbridge and full circle back to the street in Hackney.

Several of Manchester born Jack Rosenthal’s screenplays centre on London and its suburbs. Each are beautifully executed tales of everyday life narrated with pathos and humility. They are of their time but certainly none the worse for that.

The Chain begins its journey in Hackney, a somewhat different Hackney to the one that has up and come in the intervening twenty seven years since the film was made. The small terraced house that is used for the film set is shown to be 94 Quilter Street. In the screenplay a mother is preparing for the departure of her son, leaving her to await a lodger rather than face an empty house. 1881 finds the house far from empty; the Census for that year records four separate households: A Turner and his wife; Railway Porter with wife and five children; Laundress and daughter a boot fitter; Cellarman and his wife; so almost certainly one room per family in a small house comprising four rooms with a back kitchen and scullery with the only privy in the backyard.

Returning to The Chain we follow the son’s journey to Tufnell Park in a clapped out Morris Traveller. Here we are introduced to a young married couple about to embark on the property ladder with the familiar title that first came into common parlance in the 1980s the ‘first time buyer’. The young man about to move into the tired rented flat with the peeling paint on the window frames is of course suitably overawed by this ‘title’, along with the ninety per cent mortgage they have signed themselves up for. Littered around the scene thus confirming the changes in property fortunes we see the evidence of skips and scaffolding in place as slowly, gradually the once if not grand, then certainly respectable three storey terraces, built for the middling sort, are beginning to be restored to their former glory.

The next leg of the journey in the hired van with our new acquaintances ‘the first time buyers’ leads us to Willesden, where we find a post war low rise block of flats close to Walm Lane. Here we find a very young Phyllis Logan and David Troughton say goodbye to their flat in preparation to go to  a substantial property complete with granny flat in Hammersmith. The house is apparently in Burlington Road at number twenty eight although no such thoroughfare exists in Hammersmith.

A Little Bit of Hammersmith

Having dealt with squatters and cowboy removal companies we are taken to 55 Christchurch Hill Hampstead to persuade Billie Whitelaw in the guise of recently bereaved widow, to relinquish her home with an interior ‘just like Limasol’ and take up residence in a newly purchased house in Holland Park. At this point we all pour into the removal van including the widow and make our way to Holland Park.

Christchurch Hill was Christchurch Road until street renaming around 1938. The house used in the film at number fifty five is situated at the corner of Grove Place in the shadow of a block of twenty eight model dwellings built c.1914 on the site of the Wells’ Bath House.

Model Dwellings Grove Place Hampstead

On to a house in Holland Park ‘The Villa’ which by referring to this most interesting site www.reelstreets.com turns out to be filmed at 87 Addison Road. Depicted in the film as a house of the better sort belonging to an aspirational family as intended when this street was built.                                             The 1881 Census records one Alfred Clark, Varnish Manufacturer and General Merchant residing there with his wife and six children aged twenty-two to four years old. The household included four servants of which one was a groom indicative of ‘carriage folk’.

We leave this house to embark to Knightsbridge where an elderly diplomat in the shape of Leo McKern is returning to his childhood home to die, but this time as a lodger in an unfamiliar house and thus we finish up full circle back in Hackney (Quilter Street). The film will not of course be to the taste of everyone, especially with the odd little moral thread that runs through it portraying the Seven Deadly Sins however the meander through the ordinary houses of the metropolis and within that Jack Rosenthal’s skill in illustrating human nature along the way is perfectly charming.

A Little Bit of Hackney

A slightly earlier production from Jack Rosenthal also centred firmly on London and one of the Capital’s most familiar sights was The Knowledge (1979). Following the ups and downs of four ‘Knowledge Boys’ in their bid to attain the coveted Green Badge and become fully fledged Licensed Hackney Carriage drivers. Known for his attention to detail and creating credible characters, good research played a large part in his writing. In this desire to get his subject right he accompanied London taxi drivers on their journeys and in doing so was granted a honoury taxi driver’s license in the process.

A beautifully written first hand account of the real Knowledge can be found here: http://blackcablondon.wordpress.com alongside a cornucopia of accomplished narratives on life in London.

In Bar Mitzvah Boy (1976  ) the character of Victor Green  is also a London Taxi driver although this film centres around a Jewish family in a London suburb preparing . . . or not . . . .  for a family celebration. From memory boz believes the film location for Bar Mitzvah Boy may have been Neasden but can find no information available to confirm that. There is a recent adaptation for radio by Jack’s playwright daughter Amy Rosenthal which quite coincidently was broadcast this weekend.

Another tale of teenage angst set in 1948 P’tang Yang Kipperbang screened for the opening night of Channel 4 in 1982. Filmed at Wimbleden Chase Middle School and Cardinal Vaughn School, Kensington, the central character Alan Duckworth resides in a house in York Road, South Wimbledon.

Telling the story of the first television broadcast is the Fools on the Hill (1986) set almost entirely at Alexandra Palace with the opening scenes at Broadcasting House, Langham Place. The drama was made to commemorate the fiftieth anniversary of the Television Service in 1986 and can be viewed here:                                                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=

Persephone and Ariel with Eric Gill - Getty Image taken from BBC website

Broadcasting House was the first purpose built premises in 1932 for radio broadcasting by the BBC. The statue of Prospero and Ariel from Shakespeare’s The Tempest was commissioned with Ariel being the spirit of the air considered a suitable expression of the essence of broadcasting. The original design for Eric Gill’s statue had to be modified in proportion. Following a question raised in the House of Commons as to the offence on public morals Gill was instructed by the first BBC Director General, John Reith to adjust the dimensions of Ariel’s genitalia to more decent proportions.

Broadcasting House

The venture into television was not to be at Langham Place but in north London at Alexandra Palace. Incepted by the Great Northern Palace Company and originally intended as a glass structure by the name of ‘People’s Palace’, however, lack of finance put a stop to the original proposal.  Alexandra Palace was completed 1875 by Charles and Thomas Lucas who at this time were also building the Royal Albert Hall. and took the name of the park within which it stood named after the newly married Princess of Wales when it opened in 1863.  The British Broadcasting Corporation leased the eastern part of the building from 1936 and aside of the interruption of the Second World War this became the main centre for BBC television production until 1956 at a time when Jack Rosenthal was working in the promotions department of the new Granada Television Company.

Alexandra Palace with Transmitter Mast

Born 1931 in Manchester Jack Rosenthal wrote so much more than the few examples outlined here, many of which included parts played by his wife, actress Maureen Lipman and who also appears in The Knowledge. At his death in 2004 his obituary in The Guardian referred to him as “television’s Charles Dickens” presumably in acknowledgement of his ability to draw out and display the inherent caricature in human behaviour.

To return briefly to the subject of ordinary London houses; for those who paused to wonder at the commencement of this post why boz resides in Tot Hall, then this is Tot:

Expression of displeasure with his building site

Charles Williams was born Islington 1886 living in Holloway until 1894 when his parents moved to St. Albans from where they ran a shop selling art materials. Later returning to London to study at University College. In 1908 he began work as a proof reader for Oxford University Press at the London offices in Paternoster Row moving to Warwick Square 1924 where the name Amen Corner given to the warehouse on the site of the old Newgate Prison still remains. Rising to editor Williams worked in London until 1939 when the outbreak of the Second World War saw the publishing house relocate the London arm of the business to Oxford. The move to Oxford was instrumental in Williams becoming a member of the Inklings literary society formed by C. S. Lewis which included J. R. R. Tolkien in the group.

Charles William’s tale of All Hallows Eve was not to the taste of boz. Supposedly a story of divine love triumphing over evil; this reader found it to be sickening and trite. In the intentions of Dickens’ Pickwick Papers Fat Boy “I wants to make your flesh creep” it succeeds but in that it  makes the reader uncomfortable in the manner of voyeur not because it is a frightening narrative. However it is not for boz to impose unasked for opinions on the readers of this post therefore for those not familiar with Charles William’s All Hallows Eve (1945) it may be read here:  http://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks04/0400061.txt

All Hallows Eve takes in some parts of the City beginning on Westminster Bridge continuing the narrative encompassing St. Paul’s, Holborn, Tooting and Highgate Hill. Central to the story is a hall described as being ‘Behind Holborn, close to Great James Street, in a short street undamaged by the raids’. The reality of this imagined street could be any of a half dozen in that neighbourhood, however for the purposes of this post it is well suited to the convenience of boz to suppose that it may well have been Dombey Street. The reason for this is nothing to do with the street’s 1936 renaming after a novel by Charles Dickens. This thoroughfare was formerly known as East Street and as we have been disappointed with fictional tales we may conjure some factual horrors for All Souls Eve in the form of the building practises of Nicholas Barbon who obtained the reversion of a fifty one year lease for the development of East Street in 1684. Of the original houses put up by Barbon only numbers nine to fifteen have survived as a result of restoration much as took place in Red Lion Square for any who recall last weeks post.

The major source of biographical information on Nicholas Barbon is from The Autobiography of the Hon. Roger North‘s who wrote of him:

“. . . . with his much dealing in building, and consequently transacting with multitudes, he was exquisite mob master, and knew the arts of leading, winding, or driving mankind in herds as well as any that I ever observed. “

And a description from purchasers of two of Barbon’s houses:

“were very incomplete, imperfect and unfinished, and such works as were done were so ill and artificially done that the same were found to be new done and amended and repaired, several of the piers being cracked, the floors shrunk, and the house in some places in danger of falling . . . the vaults thereof are not tight but are so built whereby the rain comes in to them whereby the defendants cannot lay any goods in them.”

This related from PRO Chancery Cases within an excellent account of both Nicholas Barbon and speculative building in the eighteenth century The Birth of Modern London (1999) Elizabeth McKellar.

Being not currently in possession of any pictures of Dombey Street we will make do with a photograph of a street which at the time of capturing boz did not take care to note so beyond recalling that it is very near the locality of Red Lion Square it will remain uncatalogued until a return to that district is made. Should it be identified by any observers in the meantime that would be most useful in facilitating the correction of such negligible reporting.

Street WC1

Attempting to remain on the subject of grimness whilst not straying into the occult and also inspired by the site of the Oxford University Press warehouse; we will finish (as finish we must or this post will lose a little of its pertinence beyond midnight) with an account of Newgate Prison:

“It was a spacious, bare, whitewashed apartment, lighted of course, by windows looking into the interior of the prison, but far more light and airy than one could reasonably expect to find in such a situation. There was a large fire with a deal table before it, round which ten or a dozen women were seated on wooden forms at dinner. Along both sides of the room ran a shelf; and below it, at regular intervals, a row of large hooks were fixed in the wall, on each of them was hung the sleeping mat of a prisoner; her rug and blanket being folded up, and placed on the shelf above. At night these mats are placed on the floor, each beneath the hook on which it hangs during the day; and the ward is thus made to answer the purposes both of a day-room and sleeping apartment.”

This 1836 account by Charles Dickens taken from Chapter twenty two of Sketches by Boz alludes to a scene which could be considered if not cheerful then one could certainly forgive the reader for believing the establishment described to be warm and well ordered in fact rather more welcoming than most workhouses at that time if this observation is accurate. For now the benefit of the doubt must be granted so we will return to Newgate at a later date when there has been time enough for a little research away from the rose tinted glow of Dickens spectacles.
For quite some time now the spectre of the Shard has afforded some fascination in these quarters. So on an evening of apparitions will bid farewell with a night time view; taken from the gutter whilst looking at the stars; the wisps are likely to be from the smokers in the alleyway but can be viewed as something more whimsical should it so please.

Shard from the gutter

First stop Red Lion Square which has since resulted in a confusion with numbers. Being a rare occassion when not in a hurry to be elsewhere, it was possible to stop and photograph two buidings I have oft admired. The first being a rather nice example of interwar architecture at number 25 Red Lion Square:

Conway Hall

Building commenced 1926 and completed 1929 for the congregation of the South Place Ethical Society, a group of non conformists formed 1795 known as the Philadelphians or Universalists. Originally based in a building at 11 South Place, Finsbury  where William Hazlitt was a regular attendee and from which they retained the name on moving to the larger premises at Red Lion Square. Apparently Red Lion Square was numbered differently with the site of Conway Hall being number  37 not 25 as it is today. Have been unable thus far to find any evidence of renumbering and no Census from 1881 to 1911 lists a number 37. The site of Conway Hall was supposedly purchased as a tenement block but again no such building is in evidence by 1911.

The Charles Booth notebooks have little to say about Red Lion Square though do note the existence of flats and a lodging house:

“A few inhabited homes. Many are business premises. At the corner of Leigh Street are flats. Pink as map. There is a common lodging house on the NE side of this square which is not registered because it takes a stipulated sum per week and does not put more than a given number in a room. This seems to be the difference between lodgings and a common lodging house.”  Booth Notebooks B354 p21 As observed by George Duckworth walking with Police Constable Turner Tuesday July 12th 1898.

It is doubtful that the flats noted are the tenements that later became Conway House being that Leigh Street was on the opposite side of the Square. It is likely that the lodging house that perplexes George Duckworth was the Girls Friendly Society lodgings at number eleven present until the 1911 Census with boarders being young women only. Any information as to the renumbering of Red Lion Square would be very well received.

The development to build Red Lion Square was commenced 1684 on the site of Red Lion Fields by Nicholas Barbon, a surgeon who diverted into speculative builder, notorious for his sub standard buildings and dubious land acquisitions. As a result not many of Barbon’s buildings have stood the test of time and most houses in Red Lion Square were rebuilt throughout the course of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The exception being numbers fourteen to seventeen which remain the originals built by Barbon refronted in the nineteenth century of which number seventeen is well known:

17 Red Lion Square

It is here that Danté Gabriel Rossetti is reputed to have briefly lodged in 1851 and later recommending the same rooms to William Morris and Edward Burne Jones in 1856 which were apparently damp and decrepit. Given that these were within the original building the condition is to be expected of Nicholas Barbon’s standard of construction indeed it is to be wondered upon that the house was still standing at all in 1856. 1861 saw the firm Morris, Faulkner & Co. established at number 8 Red Lion Square.

There is of course much more of interest in Red Lion Square and numerous notable residents, but that is not for this post lest we forget that we are on a walk and dusk is approaching so must continue our journey en route to Seven Dials. Down Red Lion Street and along High Holborn takes us by Grape Street where it is deemed necessary to capture the stage door of the Shaftesbury Theatre. Although disappointingly lacking in thespian activity at such an early hour in the evening it does retain a couple of original sash windows (to the right of the picture) sash windows being of particular attraction for boz. Opened 1911 as the New Prince’s Theatre and becoming the Prince’s Theatre 1914 it was acquired by EMI 1962 to be renamed the Shaftesbury Theatre 1963. The Booth notebooks make little mention of this site as the area was being rebuilt as our guide George Duckworth notes on his travels of 1898 with Grape Street as yet not in existence.

Srage Door at the Shaftesbury Theatre

Across Shaftesbury Avenue into Neals Yard. Colourful now but according to George Duckworth report for the Booth Notebooks all stables in 1898 the Poverty map showing Black edged with Purple.

Neals Yard

Continuing onto Long Acre via brief visit to Stanfords’ excellent emporium of maps and printed goods back into Rose Street by the establishment of the Lamb and Flag public house. Being suit time on a clement Tuesday evening there is a throng at the bar spilling into the street. Reputedly the oldest pub in Covent Garden although records are sketchy, the earliest date at which the house is recorded as licensed premises in the Greater London rate books is 1772  as the Cooper’s Arms. According to Strypes Survey 1720 Rose Street was originally named in two parts as White Rose Street being the northern arm and Red Rose Street the southern part over time the distinction is lost. Another example of confusion with numbers the building which is the Lamb and Flag at number 33 was originally 11 Rose Street and listed as such in the 1881 Census with one Caleb Cullen and his wife Hannah in residence as wine and spirit merchants.

Whilst considering if time would permit the wait to be served at the bar, and reluctantly conceding that it would not; a hitherto unnoticed building was observed:

Westminster Fire Office

At the time of taking the photograph it was not realised that the building would be later encountered in researching the career of Arthur Rackham; stalwart readers will recall this from the last post as being the one time workplace of the illustrator. Now part of Garrick House which incorporate numbers 27-32 King Street and housing solicitors offices. It should be noted that the rather unnecessary and quite dreadful plastic bunting to the left of the picture was a temporary nod to patriotism given impending nuptials and fortunately not a permanent fixture.

From here through Mercer Street where we find a lovely example of the work of Ben Eine:

Ben Eine Mercer Street

For the best available accounts of the work of Ben Eine I can do no better than refer you to the inimitable writing of the Gentle Author to be found within the highly esteemed                 Spitalfields Life http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/08/23/the-rise-of-ben-eine/

Onward to Shorts gardens almost at the destination. Dusk is by now apparent serving to enhance the light in the shop windows making one notable cheesemonger appear quite magical:

Neal's Yard Dairy Shorts Gardens

This shop which opened and took its name from Neals Yard in 1979 later moved to 17 Shorts Gardens 1992. There is no number 17 Shorts Gardens listed on the 1881 Census as yet it is unclear if this presents another instance of renumbering. Of the area the Booth Archive Police Notebooks have this to say:

“small shops, Irish, rough poor, working class, ‘fling bricks at the police but are not criminal’ DB (Dark Blue) as map.” Booth Notebooks 354 p107

Thus noted George Duckworth citing Police Constable Tait’s observation 26 July 1898.

Being much too interested in the business of others boz wonders if the flat above number 17 is now let; who has taken it; what sort of a person they are. In pondering this the journey ends at the Crown in Monmouth Street so must take leave with a sketch for now.

Little bit of a big print

In recent weeks the electronic auction house has been visited and two purchases made to further add to said precipitous pile. The first purchase was a faithful reproduction of a title to which it is perhaps surprising to have hitherto not been in possession of a copy.

Despite being very familiar with most of the chapters contained therein these have been largely gleaned from perusing  articles, contained in issues of the Pall Mall Gazette and Morning Chronicle and the Monthly Magazine for the greater part, in archive offices and local studies libraries. In existence are many pages of cheap photocopies dog eared and tea stained from many years of recourse.

Unable to run to a proper first edition boz was very pleased to happen on the above, quite by chance whilst seeking a cast iron down pipe for the building site. Cheaply bound, with a strange flimsy bonded leather almost soft cover, a 1907 reprint of the original publication. It is likely to be little used as old habits die hard and the tattered photocopies of individual articles retain their place for now. Nonetheless it has proved a very satisfactory purchase and has now completed a collection of Dickens works, all of which are a hotchpotch of mismatched editions spanning more than a century and several publishing houses.

Part of  the appeal of this volume was that it holds facsimile prints of the illustrations by George Cruikshank including a reproduction of the original drawing for the wrapper to the first complete edition published in one shilling monthly parts by Messrs.  Chapman and Hall from November 1837 to January 1839.

Design for wrapper drawn by George Cruikshank

Cruikshank was Dickens’s illustrator from 1836 for the first and second series of Sketches by Boz and Oliver Twist (1837) after which he did not illustrate any of Charles Dickens other serials being engaged exclusively by the publisher Richard Bentley for Bentley’s Miscellany when it was founded in 1837. Cruikshank did however redraw his original illustrations for the Chapman and Hall 1839 edition of Sketches by Boz, Illustrative of Every-day Life and Every-day People along with a new frontispiece for that edition:

Facsimile title page of Edition of 1837

George Cruikshank 1792-1878 was London born and very familiar with its low life. Frequently likened to Hogarth, although perhaps lacking that particular artist’s finely wrought skill and tender detailed observations. In Cruikshank’s illustrations for Pierce Egan’s Life in London a monthly shilling journal published from 1821 there begun what might be considered one of the first attempts in “establishing forms of pictorial realisation that became such an important feature of Victorian publishing.”  as described in the synopsis for Unkown London: Early Modernist Visions of the Metropolis, 1815-1845 (2000) John Marriott, Masaie Matsumura, Judith R. Walkowitz. An unrivalled anthology of literature and illustration on the Metropolis with an introductory chapter from John Marriott exploring the significance of the rare texts which laid the foundations for Charles Dickens, Henry Mayhew and their successors.

Cruikshank was for the most part a caricaturist and the personal preference of this boz has always been for the more ethereal illustrations of Dickens’s next illustrator Hablot Knight Browne 1815-1882. As a child often walking along Ladbroke Grove one particular house bearing an English Heritage Blue Plaque inscribed with the name “Phiz”  possesed an enchanting curiosity long before ever having heard of any such person as Charles Dickens.

If we continue along Ladbroke Grove this will bring us close by to Kensington Gardens and thus to the second acquisition. The next small purchase was the result of trying to research some Arthur Rackham illustrations online and deciding that a printed version would be preferable. Although it would appear that the difficulty  may rest with a requirement for  spectacles rather than the computer screen.

The illustrations sought were those created by Arthur Rackham for Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens (1906). J. M. Barrie, published in response to the success of the play Peter Pan The Boy Wouldnt Grow Up which debuted at the Duke of York’s Theatre St. Martin’s Lane 27 December 1904. The play was a different story to the first publiaction of the book. Barrie’s original version was part of a dark novel for adult readers The Little White Bird (1902) from which chapters thirteen to eighteen were republished under the title Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens (1906) containing fifty colour plate illustrations by Arthur Rackham.

The very inexpensive version obtained by boz is not so grand, being a 1951 reprint of a 1929 edition and ‘Retold for Little People by May Byron with the permission of the Author’. It does however contain eight of the Rackham colour plates including one particular favourite:

Altered the hour on the board

Also therein are some reproductions of Rackham’s charming drawings for the 1912 edition:

Kensington gardens are full of dogs, and fairies, and children

Arthur Rackham 1867-1939 was born in Lewisham and studied at the City of London School and would have been a pupil at the original site in Milk Street off Cheapside, where he became known for his art. In 1885 he obtained work as a clerk at the Westminster Fire Office and continued to study part time at the Lambeth School of Art. Making occasional sales as an illustrator for magazines this led to employment with a weekly magazine the Westminster Budget as an illustrator in 1892. By the 1906 publication of Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens Arthur Rackham was already a successful and known book illustrator going on to illustrate Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland (1907).

The purchase of the 1959 copy with its few colour plates was to provide inspiration for a new screen print A London Fairytale:

Sketch for A London Fairytale

The rough sketch is the beginning of the screen to be completed soon and will be found: ‘Second to the right, and straight on till morning’.

Much of this time has been taken up in the district of Clerkenwell and in particular the Craft Central building Pennybank Chambers 33-33 St. John’s Square. One of the fruits of a series of exhibitions has been a new screen illustrating the environs of Clerkenwell that LondonKillsMe are currently hawking.

City North print

During many visits to Clerkenwell sketchesbyboz has begun tentative probings into the history of the district. Beginning with St. John’s Gate as a result of a commission more of which at a later date, and inspired by small observations en route. As yet such musings as have been gathered are unsorted and form no coherent narrative, hence for the time being an anthology of miscellaneous snippets. Informed followers of this blog are thoroughly encouraged to contradict where necessary any errors that may be chanced upon.

Beginning with St. John’s Gate it was with great interest to discover it to be the childhood home of William Hogarth from 1701 to 1709 whose father had opened an unsuccessful coffee house in the building in 1703.  Also the home of Edward Cave St. John’s Gate became the first offices and printing house of The Gentleman’s Magazine founded 1731 and thus sometimes workplace of Samuel Johnson from 1737.

Old images found randomly on the internet employing the usual disorganised fashion of research favoured tell of business and trade activity in the building.

St. John's Gate c.1860

This earlier picture c.1860 shows the Jerusalem Tavern to the left of the picture. To the right S. Wickens Coffee and Dining Room which you can just make out etched onto the glass of the window above. Did Uggins sell Old Ale or where they in fact Huggins Timber – see the door on the right – Photoshop has yet to reveal what B. Foster were purveyors of and attempts at cross reference in Kelly’s Directory and the like have been little help thus far.

St. John's Gate c.1873

In the slightly later picture c.1873 from  London Transport Museum archive these have been replaced by the French Glass Grooming Works and Spectacle Eye Glass Factory of Maurice M. Grunfield.

Another Tavern of interest which appears to have met a sad demise is just around the corner off St. John Street in Compton Street is Comptons Bar.

Compton's Bar

We know nothing about this establishment other than pausing to take a photograph of the very nice building which contains it. It is hoped to uncover more before it is purchased by developers and turned into something dreadful in the name of luxury apartments. It would be a great to delight to hear from anyone who ever went there in the times it was a thriving concern.

Clerkenwell these days of course is a very desirable and fashionable part of town. To see it now you would be surprised to learn it was one of the biggest areas of concern for the Royal Commission for Housing the Working Classes 1884-85.  Charles Booth’s Poverty Map and Notebook of 1898 George Duckworth finds St. John Square to be coloured Purple a mixture of comfortable and poor with Jerusalem Court (leading off from the Tavern) as black:

“The blackest spot of all, you can’t paint it black enough, ‘savages’ said Zenthon a danger to the police” Survey into Life and Labour in London Notebook B353 pp150-151 (1898)

George Gissing’s publication of The Nether World (1889) also focused on Clerkenwell as an abject slum whilst presenting the new model dwellings to the area in a very unsatisfactory light. It is understood that Pennybank Chambers now artisan studios was originally a model dwelling which these pages intend to show more of.

We will be back in Clerkenwell on Monday 11 and Wednesday the 13 July next week for a further perambulation. This opportunity has arisen from taking part in a recycling exhibition at the Craft Central Showcase 33-35 St. John’s Square, EC1M 4DS

http://www.craftcentral.org.uk/calendar

Do come and have a look but be careful if you encounter LondonKillsMe they may try to sell you a slate pot printed with Clerkenwell whether you want one or not.

Lah De Dah cup cakes

Taking place this week in the Craft Central Corner Shop is Something Blue. A positive confection of interior products in shades of teal; azure; royal; prussian and turquoise from designers Lorna Syson, Ellen Calvert, Sarah-Jayne Guest and Emma Britton. The opening commenced with Lah De Dah cup cakes also in shades of blue almost too pretty to eat but that hurdle was quickly overcome.  Lah De Dah cupcakes can be found at http://www.facebook.com/pagesladedahcakery
for beautiful cup cakes made in any colour you choose.

The theme of ‘Something Blue’ had been chosen as pertinent to Royal Wedding week but the unique designs on display are all elegant pieces for spring and summer.

From Lorna Syson were her signature wall sculptures. Absolutely stunning wall art made from eco friendly satin and wool.

Blue and Teal Satin Dahlia Lorna Syson

In addition to the gorgeous designs available in the Corner Shop Lorna undertakes bespoke commissions www.lornasyson.co.uk

Hand crafted upcycled home furnishings from Ellen Calvert included lovely knitted cushions (see final photo in post) and embroidered samplers. sketchesbyboz was particularly taken with this one:

Embroidered Sampler Ellen Calvert

Much more of Ellen’s intricate and distinctive work is at the Corner Shop this week and can be found www.ellencalvert.co.uk

Imaginative printed textiles by Sarah-Jayne Guest collection include spectacular cushions and lampshades.

Royal Duck cushion sjguest

Beautiful and fun printed textiles www.sjgeust.com

You will see in the picture below to the side of Sarah-Jayne’s lampshades a large glass wall panel. This is the the creation of Emma Britton whose amazing decorative glass designs combine aesthetic individuality with practical use. The large wall panel can be made to any dimension as a unique splashback and smaller pieces are available as surface protectors and coasters. There are a range of these on sale at ‘Something Blue’ and for bespoke designs to fit any interior space www.emmabritton.net

Foxglove Surface protector Emma Brotton

Sweet Pea surface protector Emma Britton

Something Blue runs until Sunday 1 May so if you are looking for something away from the television and the hype this weekend head over to Clerkenwell Green and see for yourself.

Craft Central Corner Shop, 21 Clerkenwell Green, London EC1R 0DX

'Something Blue'

]]> http://sketchesbyboz.wordpress.com/2011/04/28/something-blue/feed/ 1 sketchesbyboz something blue 104 something blue 095 something blue 105 something blue 108 something blue 101 something blue 097 something blue 099 something blue 100 http://sketchesbyboz.wordpress.com/2011/04/07/designer-maker-market/ http://sketchesbyboz.wordpress.com/2011/04/07/designer-maker-market/#comments Thu, 07 Apr 2011 20:44:38 +0000 sketchesbyboz http://sketchesbyboz.wordpress.com/?p=190 Continue reading →]]> Last Saturday 2 April LondonKillsMe were very pleased to be able to participate in the first day of a new fixture taking place every Saturday through to September this year.

Flyer designed by James Brown at General Pattern

Saturday was a beautiful sunny day and the new Designer Maker market attracted a nice crowd conducive to a lovely friendly atmosphere for browsers and designers on the stalls.

The distinctive signage was designed and printed by James Brown at www.generalpattern.net whose striking prints are available to purchase at the market.

James Brown prints

Last Saturday included many talented designers. Exhibiting an array of unique screen prints was Mr Wingate including the very pertinent East End Pub range which can also be found at the Designer Maker market and www.wingateprint.com

George and Dragon cushion Mr. Wingate

Hand printed textile design Mr Wingate

One of our favourite ceramists Jo Davies took part displaying original and beautiful vessels and vases available at www.jo-davies.com

Zsa Zsa Vase Jo Davies

Jo Davis

LondonKillsMe had a collection of reclaimed slate planters for Spring. This coming Saturday we will include some new slate plant pots printed with the Truman chimney and containing a growing Hop plant.

Reclaimed slate planter Paris print LondonKillsMe

The market takes place in the Triangle just off Mare Street E8 immediately behind the London Fields public house. Hackney like much of East London is an area constantly undergoing change and regeneration as well as containing a wealth of history. Charles Booth’s 1897 description of the area is rather different to the picture you find now:

The Poverty Map of 1898/99 depicts the Triangle as being bounded by pink indicating a populace considered to be ‘Fairly comfortable. Good ordinary earnings’ however just behind the railway in Triangle Road and Triangle Place are shown as dark blue indicitive of ‘Very poor, casual Chronic want’

The corresponding description in the Survey notebooks does little to recommend the place. According to Inspector Fitzgerald who accompanied the investigator for this area it was “Very rough and very poor. As rough & poor as we’ve got it. Some no doubt live by their wits but I don’t know any of them personally”                                                                   Charles Booth Survey into life and labour in London (1886-1903) B347 pp36-37 http://booth.lse.ac.uk/

sketchesbyboz is interested to find out more about the history of the London Fields public house. All we have managed to learn so far is that it was renamed the London Fields in 1989 and was from at least 1915 the Warburton Arms briefly owned by jazz musician Art Christmas between 1952 and 1954.

Apparently there has been an inn on the site occupied by the London Fields since the sixteenth century. Although interestingly no such establishment is noted in the the Booth Survey notebooks, which is unusual given the investigators’ penchant for gleefully describing any den of iniquity they happened upon.

So we would be very pleased to find out more so if any historians of Hackney can enlighten us we would love to hear from you.

We will be returning to the Designer Maker market this coming Saturday so do consider a trip to Hackney to see for yourself how delightful it is and try out the excellent cake stall. All the details you need to get there are included in the flyer at the top of this post.

In choosing a suitable profile image for Twitter this put us in mind of another building site in Kensal Green which is now a finished project. Part of the interior design at the Kensal Green house detailed screen printed floors. The first was to the kitchen, reproducing two lines of the G K. Chesterton poem The Rolling English Road (1914). The screen for this had to be drawn by hand and an old french door served as the frame.

Paradise Screen

The result remains protected under varnish:

Kitchen floor

Following this we were delighted to be given a barely salvageble pub sign but salvage it we did. Rotted at one end and encrusted in cemented footprints a good application of two pack wood filler, a little bit of artistry with acrylic and varnish and around thirty six hours restored the primitive painted sign back to life. The end result completed the cemeterial theme for the kitchen of the house in Kensal Green.

In situ

Paradise by Way of Kensal Green

Incidentally G K Chesterton wrote Charles Dickens: A Critical Study (1906) and the entry for Charles Dickens in the 14th edition of the Encyclopedia Britannica (1929). And thus it seemed fitting to use Paradise as the image for the profile of sketchesbyboz who when in that part of town continues the occasional sojourn to Kensal Green Cemetary.

Inspiration from Queen Elizabeth Chelsea Old Town Hall

Three weeks on, a very belated thank you to Rosemary Lucas for organising and curating the Creative Hearts exhibition which took place at Craft Central, St. John’s Square, Clerkenwell 1 – 13 February.

Creative Hearts showcased fifteen designer makers each creating a heart inspired range perfectly timed for Valentines Day of which five per cent of sales were in support of the British Heart Foundation 50th Anniversary Appeal. With generous contributions from local businesses Bellore www.bellore.com Lily Maila www.lilymaila.com Stuart R Stevenson www.stuartrstevenson.co.uk Bleeding Heart Restaurant www.bleedingheart.co.uk
and The Green www.thegreeec1.co.uk

Much of the inspiration for the ‘Queen of Hearts’ theme drew from an archive of illustrations from Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland spanning over a century of illustrators from the early John Tenniel through Arthur Rackham and Mabel Lucy Attwell to present day Helen Oxenbury. A collection of Alice in Wonderland editions from old and rare to recent publications provided an eclectic foil for the jewellery display in the foyer. 

Hearts and Books

LondonKillsMe were very pleased to be able to participate in Creative Hearts and had a thoroughly nice time working with Rosemary and the other participating designers.

The arresting window dressing by Keren Cornelius was based around a centrepiece Queen Of Hearts gown displaying the talent of costumier Anna Maria Geniusea.

Creative Hearts Window

Keren’s own exquisite jewellery designs were showcased,  created using textile based techniques inspired by the repertory costumes of the Royal Opera House. www.kerencornelius.com

200 Metres Keren Cornelius

Rosemary Lucas created an elegant silver cuff with pierced cardiogram design for Creative Hearts alongside her other meticulously hand crafted jewellery including the unique River Cuffs.

River Cuff City Rosemary Lucas

River Cuff can be commissioned from Rosemary to detail any section of any river. www.rosemarylucas.com

Nancy Waters experimental materials led techniques result in dexterously inventive beautiful pieces. For Creative Hearts Nancy designed embossed silver bookmarks in addition to her perfectly formed miniature fine silver books. www.nancywaters.co.uk

Fine Silver Book Necklace Nancy Waters

Ceramacist Namiko Murakoshi created a special range of covetable heart inspired sugar pots with a clever twist to consider your heart once you have consumed all the sugar! www.namnamceramics.com

For our own part we created a linen wall hanging. Entitled Hearts and Crafts and inspired by the traditional artisan printing techniques of the Arts and Crafts movement. A visual archive of some of our most popular screen prints to represent the ‘heart’ of LondonKillsMe.

Linen Wall Hanging LondonKillsMe in situ at Creative Hearts

Being involved in Creative Hearts was a great experience and we hope it’s success inspires Rosemary to extend her fabulous curatory skills into further ventures in the future.